Few things are as exciting for poultry farmers and hobbyists as the moment when an egg starts pipping — the first tiny crack in the shell showing the chick is on its way out. But what if the egg pips and then… nothing happens?
This is one of the most stressful scenarios in incubation. Eggs that pip but fail to hatch can lead to losses, weak chicks, and frustration, especially for beginners.
In this comprehensive guide, we’ll cover:
- ✅ Why eggs pip but don’t hatch
- ✅ How long to wait after pipping
- ✅ Signs of healthy vs. struggling chicks
- ✅ Step-by-step solutions to assist hatching safely
- ✅ Expert tips to improve overall hatch rates
By the end, you’ll know exactly what to do, when to wait, and when to intervene.
🥚 What Is Pipping in Egg Hatching?
Pipping is the first external sign that a chick is ready to hatch. It happens in two stages:
Internal Pipping 🫁
- The chick breaks into the air cell inside the egg and starts breathing air.
- Happens around Day 19–20 in chicken eggs.
External Pipping 🐣
- The chick cracks the outer shell, making a small hole.
- This is usually when farmers first notice activity.
After external pipping, chicks normally rest and absorb yolk sacs before hatching fully. But if something goes wrong, they might get stuck, weaken, or die inside the egg.
⏳ How Long Should You Wait After Pipping?
On average:
- Chickens: 12–24 hours after external pipping
- Ducks & Geese: 24–48 hours
- Quail: 8–18 hours
If more than 24–30 hours pass without progress, your chick may be in trouble. However, acting too soon can also harm it.
Golden Rule:
“When in doubt, wait — but know when waiting becomes dangerous.”
⚠️ Causes of Eggs Pipping But Not Hatching
Understanding why this happens is the key to fixing it. Below are the most common causes:
🧪 1. Incorrect Humidity Levels
- Low humidity → membranes dry out → chicks get shrink-wrapped.
- High humidity → excess moisture → chicks drown before hatching.
Optimal Humidity:
- Days 1–18 → 45–55%
- Lockdown phase (Day 19 onward) → 65–75%
🌡️ 2. Unstable Temperature
- High temps → chicks develop too fast → weak at hatch.
- Low temps → delayed hatching → exhaustion.
Ideal Incubation Temperature:
- Forced-air incubator: 37.5°C (99.5°F)
- Still-air incubator: 38.3°C (101°F)
🫁 3. Improper Air Cell Development
Chicks rely on the air cell for breathing during hatching. If humidity was wrong earlier, the air cell may be too small or too large, making it hard for chicks to breathe.
🧬 4. Weak or Late-Developing Embryos
Causes include:
- Poor egg quality
- Inbreeding
- Vitamin deficiencies in breeder diet
💉 5. Wrong Handling During Lockdown
Opening the incubator during lockdown can cause:
- Rapid humidity drops → membrane shrinkage
- Disturbance to resting chicks → increased mortality
🥵 6. Exhausted Chicks
Sometimes chicks pip too early and run out of energy before completing the hatch.
🛠️ Step-by-Step Solutions: What to Do
🟢 Step 1 — Wait, Don’t Panic!
- After external pipping, give at least 12–18 hours.
- Avoid opening the incubator unnecessarily.
🟢 Step 2 — Check Humidity & Temperature
- Increase humidity to 70–75% during hatching.
- Use a hygrometer, not guesswork.
🟢 Step 3 — Candle the Egg Carefully 🔦
Use a strong candler to check:
- Air cell size
- Position of the chick
- Presence of active movement
🟢 Step 4 — Listen for Signs of Distress 🎧
Put the egg near your ear. If you hear:
- Regular peeping → chick is fine.
- Weak, fading peeps → chick may need help.
🟢 Step 5 — Safe Assisted Hatching 🐥
Only assist if:
- The chick has pipped for 24+ hours without progress.
- Breathing sounds weak.
- Membranes look dry and stuck.
Steps to Assist:
- Wash your hands thoroughly.
- Use a sterile tweezer to carefully chip around the pip.
- Stop immediately if you see blood — let veins recede first.
- Moisten membranes with warm saline or coconut oil.
- Allow the chick to push itself out gradually.
🧠 Expert Tips to Prevent Pipping Problems
- 🧴 Use calibrated hygrometers and thermometers
- 🥚 Collect fresh, clean eggs only
- 🧼 Sanitize incubators between hatches
- 📅 Turn eggs regularly until Day 18
- 🚫 Never open incubator during lockdown
- 🥦 Feed breeder hens vitamin-rich diets
📊 Table: Ideal Incubation Parameters
| Phase | Days | Temperature | Humidity | Turning Required? |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Pre-lockdown | 1–18 | 37.5°C (99.5°F) | 45–55% | Yes |
| Lockdown | 19 onward | 37°C (99°F) | 65–75% | No |
| Hatching | Final 2 days | 37°C (99°F) | 70–75% | No |
🔍 Understanding “Shrink-Wrapping” in Detail
When humidity drops during lockdown, the inner membrane dries out and hardens. This traps the chick inside, making it nearly impossible to hatch naturally.
How to Prevent It:
- Never open the incubator unnecessarily during lockdown.
- Maintain 70–75% humidity consistently.
- Use a wet sponge or warm water bowl inside the incubator to boost humidity fast.
🫁 Recognizing “Drowning Chicks”
Excessive humidity can also cause chicks to drown inside the egg before hatching.
Signs:
- No movement after internal pipping.
- Egg feels heavier due to retained fluid.
Solution:
- Keep humidity balanced → too high is as dangerous as too low.
🌡️ Ideal Oxygen & Ventilation Levels
Many beginners forget that chicks need oxygen once they internally pip.
- Lack of airflow suffocates chicks.
- Overcrowded incubators make this worse.
Pro Tips:
- Ensure vents are slightly open during the last 3 days.
- Avoid sealing the incubator too tightly.
🧪 Checking for Malpositioned Chicks
Sometimes chicks pip but can’t hatch because they’re upside down or malpositioned in the egg.
How to Detect:
- Use candling: Look for irregular air cell shape or beak away from air sac.
- Assisted hatching may be needed in severe cases.
🧼 Importance of Egg Storage Before Incubation
Improper egg storage before incubation can increase pipping failures:
- Don’t store eggs longer than 7 days.
- Store at 12–16°C (55–60°F) with 60–70% humidity.
- Always set eggs large end up for proper air cell formation.
🥦 Breeder Nutrition Affects Hatching
Weak embryos often come from nutrient-deficient parent stock.
Essential nutrients for breeders:
- Vitamin A, D3, and E → for membrane strength
- Calcium & phosphorus → for shell quality
- Omega-3 fatty acids → for embryo vitality
🧠 Advanced Assisted Hatching Techniques
If a chick is truly stuck:
- Use warm saline to moisten dry membranes.
- Remove tiny shell pieces bit by bit, never peel fully at once.
- Wait until all visible blood vessels have dried before freeing the chick.
📊 Hatch Rate Optimization Checklist
| Problem | Cause | Solution |
|---|---|---|
| Shrink-wrapped chicks | Low humidity | Increase humidity to 70–75% |
| Drowned chicks | Excess humidity | Reduce to 65–70% |
| Weak chicks | Poor breeder nutrition | Use vitamin-enriched diets |
| Delayed hatch | Low temperature | Keep stable at 37.5°C |
| Sudden deaths | Low oxygen | Improve incubator ventilation |
🧩 Recovery After Hatching
Chicks that struggle to hatch need special care:
- Keep them in the incubator until fully dry.
- Provide electrolytes in drinking water for first 24 hours.
- Keep brooder temps at 32–35°C.
❓ Frequently Asked Questions
Q1. How long can I leave a chick after pipping?
A: Up to 24 hours is normal. Wait unless you see distress signs.
Q2. Should I increase humidity when chicks are pipping?
A: Yes — humidity should be 70–75% during hatching.
Q3. Can I open the incubator to check pipped eggs?
A: Avoid it unless absolutely necessary; sudden drops in humidity can shrink-wrap chicks.
Q4. Is assisted hatching safe?
A: Yes, but only if you’re trained and the chick is truly stuck.
Q5. How can I improve hatch rates long-term?
A: Maintain perfect incubation conditions, use fertile eggs, and avoid overhandling.
🏁 Final Thoughts
When eggs are pipping but not hatching, patience is your best ally. Most chicks just need time to rest and absorb nutrients before emerging. But if you notice weakness, dryness, or distress, careful intervention can save lives.
By controlling humidity, temperature, and handling practices, you can dramatically improve your hatch success rate and avoid unnecessary chick losses.