There’s nothing quite as disappointing as peeking into your incubator on hatch day only to find...nothing. 😢 After 21 days of monitoring temperature, humidity, turning schedules, and candling, the silence of an unhatched egg is gut-wrenching. Whether you’re a beginner or a seasoned hatchery owner, hatch failure is frustrating—and costly.
But what if you could prevent it?
In this post, we’ll break down 15 real-world reasons your eggs aren’t hatching—and give you science-backed, field-tested fixes for every one. Let’s turn heartbreak into healthy hatchlings! 🐥❤️
🔍 1. Infertile Eggs: Not Every Egg Holds Life
⚠️ The Problem:
Not all eggs are fertile. Even with a rooster in the flock, fertility rates may be lower than expected.
✅ The Fix:
- Candle eggs on Day 7 to check for development (veins and dark embryo).
- Check fertility by cracking open a few before incubating to inspect the blastodisc.
- Ensure a healthy rooster-to-hen ratio (1:8–10).
🌡️ 2. Incorrect Incubator Temperature
⚠️ The Problem:
A few degrees too hot or cold can disrupt embryo development or kill chicks in shell.
✅ The Fix:
- Maintain 99.5°F (37.5°C) in forced-air incubators.
- Use two thermometers to verify readings.
- Avoid opening the lid too often.
💧 3. Humidity Woes: Too Much or Too Little
⚠️ The Problem:
Low humidity causes chicks to stick to shell. High humidity causes drowned embryos.
✅ The Fix:
- Keep 45–55% humidity for Days 1–18.
- Raise to 65–75% during lockdown (Days 19–21).
- Use a hygrometer you trust—and calibrate it!
🔄 4. Inadequate Egg Turning
⚠️ The Problem:
Embryos stick to shell membranes if not turned regularly.
✅ The Fix:
- Turn at least 3–5 times daily from Day 1–18.
- Always stop turning at Day 18 (lockdown).
- Automatic turners? Make sure they’re working!
🦠 5. Bacterial Contamination
⚠️ The Problem:
Dirty eggs or incubators spread infection, killing embryos.
✅ The Fix:
- Always collect eggs with clean hands.
- Sanitize the incubator before every batch.
- Use clean, dry eggs—don’t wash unless needed.
🌍 6. Old or Improperly Stored Eggs
⚠️ The Problem:
Eggs lose hatchability the longer they’re stored.
✅ The Fix:
- Set eggs within 7 days of laying.
- Store at 50–60°F (10–15°C) with 70% humidity.
- Turn stored eggs daily to keep yolks centered.
📉 7. Poor Breeder Nutrition
⚠️ The Problem:
Unbalanced diets result in weak embryos and lower fertility.
✅ The Fix:
- Feed breeders a balanced diet with 16–18% protein.
- Ensure vitamins A, D3, and E levels are adequate.
- Provide oyster shell or grit for calcium.
🧬 8. Inbreeding and Genetic Weakness
⚠️ The Problem:
Too much inbreeding leads to high embryo mortality.
✅ The Fix:
- Rotate breeding stock regularly.
- Introduce new genetics to improve diversity.
🧯 9. Power Failures During Incubation
⚠️ The Problem:
Temperature drops or spikes can kill developing embryos.
✅ The Fix:
- Use a backup battery or generator.
- Keep the incubator in a room with stable temperature.
📆 10. Incubating Dirty or Cracked Eggs
⚠️ The Problem:
Contaminants can seep in, and cracked shells don’t offer proper protection.
✅ The Fix:
- Candle eggs before setting.
- Only incubate clean, intact eggs.
- Patch minor cracks with melted wax (as a last resort).
🌫️ 11. Wrong Altitude or Air Pressure
⚠️ The Problem:
High altitudes need higher oxygen and adjusted humidity.
✅ The Fix:
- Increase ventilation.
- Slightly increase humidity if hatching at high elevations.
👀 12. Opening the Incubator During Lockdown
⚠️ The Problem:
Drops in humidity shrink-wrap chicks in shells.
✅ The Fix:
- Do NOT open the incubator from Day 18–21.
- Watch through the window only!
⚰️ 13. Helping Chicks Hatch Too Early
⚠️ The Problem:
Unnecessary interference kills or injures chicks.
✅ The Fix:
- Only assist after 24–36 hours of no progress post-pip.
- Know the signs of distress (no progress, chirping fades, yolk unabsorbed).
🧼 14. Not Cleaning Between Batches
⚠️ The Problem:
Residual bacteria, debris, and mold harm new eggs.
✅ The Fix:
- Use a bleach or vinegar solution to disinfect.
- Dry completely before using.
🧪 15. Misunderstanding Candling Results
⚠️ The Problem:
Misreading candling signs can lead to discarding viable eggs.
✅ The Fix:
- Learn what a good embryo looks like at Days 7, 14, and 18.
- Use a powerful candler or flashlight.
🧠 Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
❓ Q1: What is the best temperature and humidity for hatching chicken eggs?
A: 99.5°F with 45–55% humidity (Days 1–18), then 65–75% (Days 19–21).
❓ Q2: Can I hatch eggs without an incubator?
A: Yes, with a broody hen or a homemade incubator—but consistency is key!
❓ Q3: Why do chicks pip but not hatch?
A: Likely causes: low humidity, weak chick, or shrink-wrapping due to early lid opening.
❓ Q4: How can I test egg fertility before incubation?
A: Crack open sample eggs and check for a white bullseye on the yolk (blastoderm).
❓ Q5: Should I help chicks hatch?
A: Only as a last resort—helping too soon can be fatal.
🔚 Conclusion: Success Starts with Awareness
Hatching isn't just science—it's an art backed by knowledge and care. 🎨🐣 The more you understand about the delicate nature of embryo development, the better your hatch rates will be. Save this guide, check your processes, and watch your success rate soar.
Happy hatching! 🐔🥚🚀